TRANOÏ NEW YORK

TRANOÏ, which means “between us” in Italian, is an artistic platform that gathers and curates the very best of avant-garde and progressive designers as well as contemporary and leading brands, and puts them in the hands of the most influential players in the fashion industry.

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The tote and program from the show.

From the Tranoï Site: Four times a year during Paris Fashion Week, and twice a year during New York Market Week, the TRANOÏ fashion trade show takes place in prestigious venues and establishes a relationship between creativity and business.

The prestigious venue for this year’s TRANOÏ NY event was The Tunnel, located in Chelsea on 11th Avenue. My companion for the show was friend and professional perfumer, Sherri Sebastian, of Sebastian Signs. Sherri was to participate in a panel discussion about trends on Saturday so she set off to gather what information she could from all of the latest items on display.

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Rich and Sherri

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Vendors, Buyers and Groupies

We walked the floor, Sherri with an eye on trends while I considered the packaging. Below are some photos from the event.

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One curiosity was the infusing of artifacts. Fragrances were a good part of the show and so perfumes were in abundance. But fragrances don’t always have to be housed in a perfume bottle, they can be absorbed into objects. Rather than have a jar of aromatic crystals in your home, perhaps a sculptural display would suffice.

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A drop of fragrance with one of these and you have a conversational scent pieces.

Having gathered her thoughts, Sherri shared her opinion with the Trend Panel on Saturday. Overall, she thought the show was lovely, understated and elegant. There were highly curated collections of the hottest luxury must-haves. There were many heavy oud inspired notes – oud is the synthetic version of agarwood. Sherri spoke about how the trend will be towards more muted and resinous woody notes. Florals will become greener. The Rose trend will migrate towards violets and other vintage floral notes. The Trend panel agreed with her insights, adding that oud could become a new fragrance category.

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On the packaging side, there was a lot of black.

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…and more black, which is to be expected in the luxury market.

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If black wasn’t dark enough for you, one of the fragrances had ingredients such as gun powder, blood and brandy. But some still appreciate color,  especially gold.

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In the end, all was pretty and elegant. But in a market where you can sample the scent before the purchase, packaging will take a back seat. You may be drawn to the display because of design but if it’s not what you want, you’re not going to make a purchase.

Just like consumer goods, you can wrap a chicken dinner in the best packaging in the world but if the customer wants steak, you’re not going to sell your chicken. I’m not sure that adding gunpowder, blood and brandy is going to help in that market.

 

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